![]() ![]() Press tab lightly at the back of the electrical connection and slide off gently, plastic may be brittle after years of heating/cooling.Ĥ. Remove the air intake duct and the air filter housing, don't forget to pop the Mass Air Flow/Intake Temperature (MFAT/IAT) electrical sensor out of the air box and such before pulling off. Next remove the engine cover to expose the engine.ģ. To Start its always best practice to Disconnect the Negative terminal of the battery: this will prevent you shorting out any electrical connections.Ģ. ![]() Here is one of the videos I first had watched, I've added it first in case someone wants some more visuals in addition to photos I took at the time.ġ. I've included in the attached files at the bottom, a general overview of where the sensors are in the engine bay if you get confused and a list of the general information sensors on a 5.7L Tundra should you wonder what you're looking at.Īll bolts removed will be 10mm with exception of the 12mm valve cover center bolts.ġ0mm Bolts Torque spec: 108in-lbs, 12Nm, or around 7-9ft-lbsġ2mm Center Bolt Torque spec: 15ft-lbs or 21Nm Since some of these bolts have different lengths, try to keep a bolt with a sensor best you can or at lease remove them in order and reassemble later in reverse order of removed. To make this process easier on yourself, take photos like I did (maybe more) of sensors of what bolt goes to a specific area. My Tundra is a 2008 Crewmax 5.7L so this will apply best to most 2nd Gen Tundras, although this engine has been used from 2007 up into the present 2020 Tundra so the steps are probably fairly similar for those who want to do this themselves, cannot verify torque specs will be reliable for 5.7L engines after 2014.but I can't imagine they've changed much.Ī 3UR-FE and a 3UR-FBE are the engine designations for the 5.7L V8 (FBE designates a Flex Fuel 5.7L engine, rest of 5.7L's are all FE's). Usually upon a later mileage spark plug change you will notice maybe one, two, or multiple spark plugs covered in oil, this is most commonly an issue of the rubber in the seals wearing out.sadly the whole valve cover must be removed to fully remedy this issue for longer. The 5.7L Engine has Spark plug wells which are sealed by a rubber gasket around the spark plug. If you have any questions on how to remove a bolt, a valve cover is stuck, etc. I took some photos along the way and want to help others through the process the best I can with a general overview of how its done. '87 Nissan Pathfinder.gone but not forgotten.Hey everyone, I've seen some questions on the Valve Cover gasket seal change on the 5.7L engine. 6 Speed Auto, Black Leather Interior, De-Badged, Magnaflowed, Air Box Mods.Stock, mostly.For Now!īlack, V6, Downey / Rancho suspension F&R, 3 inch sus lift, 1 inch body lift, SAW T-Barz, 4:88's, ARB (rear), 32X12.50 BS Dualers on AR 8X15 Wheelz, Power Slots and Pads, Downey headers, MagnaFlo Muff, K&N FIPK, Ported heads, 1 piece stainless valves.way too much money in it!ĭr.D Header and Can, JD Jetting, P38 AP, UNI Flame Proof Air Filter, No Back Fire Screen, Carbon Fiber Carb Heat Shield, Renthals, Maxxis Desert IT Tires, ASV Controls. Silver with Limo Black Tinted Windows, 4 cyl. Grey.V8 SR5 4X4 TRD Off Road Suspension, LSD, Towing Package, 5100's Front & Rear, Total Chaos UCAz, Cooper Discoverer AT3 265 75 16 Tires, Magnaflowed, UNIChipped, True~Flowed (w/ Secret AirBox Mods!), DeBadged, ScanGaged, XM'ed, a Few Scrapes and Dings.Yeah! ![]() ![]() TheGryme :becky: Do It Right, No One Remembers. ![]()
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